“Going to Vietnam the first time was life-changing for sure. Maybe because it was all so new and different to my life before and the world I grew up in. The food, culture, landscape, and smell; they’re all inseparable. It just seemed like another planet; a delicious one that sort of sucked me in and never let go.”
Anthony Bourdain
Introduction to our Vietnam Itinerary
Vietnam was the 4th country on our two months long journey around South East Asia. I have always wanted to visit Vietnam for as long as I can remember and even though I may have idealized it a little bit, it didn’t disappoint. We had a bit of a rough start with missed flight and two scams that happened within two hours in the country, but in the end we had a great time and I would give Vietnam another chance without a blink of an eye. The country is extremely diverse with beautiful wild nature, cute towns, rich history and of course delicious food. Moreover, it is still very affordable despite of its growing popularity. Here is our 2 week itinerary from north to south, including jungles, culture, beaches and nightlife. Vietnam in 2 weeks
Day 1 - Hanoi
Well, our trip didn’t start the way we wanted because we actually didn’t make it to Hanoi at all. We were flying to Vietnam from Yangon International Airport in Myanmar. The flight was supposed to be at 7 pm, but when we got to the airport at 4 pm, we were told that the plane already left, that the time has changed. We were 2 of totally 4 passengers who were not notified about the new schedule, but the Vietnam airlines were nice enough to give us a hotel for the night and a business lounge for the following day until we were able to board the new flight at 7 pm the next day. So yes, instead of spending one day in Hanoi, we spent it in business lounge drinking and eating for free, then boarding the plane at 7 pm, arriving late and went straight to bed to wake up early and go immediately to Halong Bay. Travelling includes many hiccups along the way and, frankly, ours wasn’t that bad. Anyway, I believe that I will make it again to Hanoi at some point! Vietnam in 2 weeks
I was excited to visit this city and these are the places that were on my agenda.
What to do in Hanoi
- Famous Train Street, where train passes through couple times a day and the merchants have to quickly pack their stalls
- The Old Quarter
- Temple of Literature
- Wander around one of many lakes that are located within Hanoi’s city centre
- Ho Chi Minh Museum and Mausoleum
- Watch water puppet show
- And of course, eat all the street food!
Days 2 - 5 - Halong Bay Cruise
I booked the transfer from Hanoi to Halong via Baolau. They provide luxury transfers, but at the time of the booking it was the most convenient mean of transport because they picked us up at our hotel and dropped us off at the boat (or where the boat was supposed to be). Their car was great, comfy and we got water and some crackers so I’d definitely recommend them for any longer rides (they operate across many countries in SE Asia).
Finding our boat was a little bit more difficult! I booked the cruise via booking.com and I would not recommend anyone doing the same! Pick a boat on booking.com, but then go to their website and book directly with them. What happened to us was that I booked the trip and booking took the money (Halong Bay cruise for 2 nights was the most expensive part of our holiday, but also the best) which wasn’t a little amount. Then I got an email that the boat will be notified about the booking “closer to the date”. They sent us an address where to board the ship and that’s all, no more other communication. Vietnam in 2 weeks
On the day of the cruise, we came to the spot and the boat wasn’t there. No one spoke English, no one could help us. At this point I was confused and annoyed by Vietnam because of the missed flight, ugly hotel in Hanoi with wrong name and this whole situation that looked like we would lose our money.
Luckily it ended up well for us as we randomly walked into a shop where a girl could speak some English and it turned out that her father was the captain of our ship! Hallelujah! By this lucky coincidence our trip in Vietnam turned out great. We struggled a little bit to get on the boat because it was “parked” in the middle of the bay and we had to take a ferry and a smaller boat to get there, but in the end it was all worth it! You can read about our three days spent cruising around Halong Bay here.
Days 5 - 8 - Ninh Binh
From Halong to Hue I booked a van with Discovery Transfers via 12go.asia website. As I mentioned in my very first article about our full SE Asia itinerary, I booked most of our transfers there because you can see the comparison in prices, different means of transport and most importantly reviews from other customers so you get an idea what to expect beforehand. Vietnam in 2 weeks
The journey lasted about 3 hours, the van was completely packed, and we were sitting with the driver at the front seats so we could see very well that his driving skills were, well, let’s call them unique (we didn’t die, right?). It wasn’t the most comfortable journey but travelling isn’t always perfect. However, he was playing Vietnamese versions of old school songs from the beginning of the decade (talking Britney and Hit me baby one more time) which was super entertaining!
We spent in Ninh Binh 3 nights and I think it was just right amount of time. The area is extremely beautiful, it reminds of Halong Bay but on the ground, not on water. The limestone cliffs, small villages, flowing river, farm animals and lush green forests are everywhere and I felt the biggest freedom just by driving around on our motorbike. Vietnam in 2 weeks
From places to see in the area I would recommend visiting:
Hang Mua Caves
Even though it seems like you can visit a cave here, the name is a little bit misleading! No underground cave, but the direct opposite. This place will offer you the most beautiful panoramic views over Tam Coc rice paddies, river, dramatic cliffs and lovely Vietnamese nature. Be aware though, to get to the view point you have to conquer 500 steep zigzag steps which is not an easy task in heat and humidity. I will be honest, it was very difficult and I thought I would faint. We were lazy to get up too early in the morning and we got there right around the noon which wasn’t very smart idea. However, I’m glad we did it and after some time I can say it was worth it.
The entrance fee is 100,000 VND per person and we also paid 10,000 VND for scooter parking in the shade (on the sun is for free but really, you want to pay).
Trang An Grottoes
This might be mi favorite experience in Ninh Binh! Trang An Grottoes is like an outdoor geological museum with many small caves and coves located on the river so you have to take a boat ride to discover them all. You can choose from 4 routes on a map located at the entrance. It will tell you exactly how many pagodas and caves you’ll visit on your tour. Each lasts about 2-3 hours and costs 200,000 VND per adult.
After paying for your tour you just have to board the little wooden motor-less boat and go! Each boat can take up to 4 passengers and they are operated solely by older Vietnamese ladies. If your group is too heavy for the lady, she will ask you to paddle, which we did. It was really fun experience, some of the caves were as long as 900 m, the water in the slowly flowing river was crystal clear and we visited some really awesome pagodas and other religious relics along the way.
On the tour make sure that you have a hat and that your shoulders are also covered because it can get very hot. There are food stalls to buy drinks and ice cream but take a bottle of water just in case. We also gave a tip to our brave lady, she was very nice. The area around Trang An Grottoes was also a movie set of Kong: The Skull Island. I haven’t seen the movie, but it’s always awesome to say that you were at a movie set.
Bich Dong Pagoda
For me, Bich Dong Pagoda is the most attractive landmark in Ninh Binh. It comprises three cave temples having the traditional architecture’s characteristics of wood and stone and they are set in the hill side surrounded by green forest, rice paddies and a pond with water lilies. The lone entrance to the pagoda is worth visiting because of its picturesque appearance (I’m sure you can see heaps of photos of this place in Instagram). Inside each cave temple you can find quite a few bats, looming statues of Buddha and burning incense. Outside there are incredible countryside views.
Tam Coc Rice Paddies
Tam Coc is best to be enjoyed from a boat, motorbike or bicycle. Just drive around, eat some great food, stop here and there to snap some photos and enjoy the views. Vietnam in 2 weeks
Chua Bai Dinh Pagoda
Chua Bai Dinh is not only one pagoda, but the whole cultural complex in Gia Vien District in Ninh Binh. Set in the hill above the village, this religious site is the biggest in Vietnam and it looks truly marvelous during the day as well as at night, when all the lights are lit up. I know many travelers tend to skip this place because it’s a little bit further from Tam Coc, but I’d definitely recommend to check it out. It’s open every day from 6 am to 6 pm and a strict dress code is followed – no revealing or tight clothes are allowed, so make sure you are wearing something appropriate (flowy skirt under your knees and covered shoulders) to avoid disappointment if you are not allowed to the premises.
Where to stay in Ninh Binh
Ninh Binh is a fairly large province. There are several areas where to stay. The most popular is smaller town Tam Coc or the capital of the province called the same – Ninh Binh. We stayed in a home stay in Gia Vien District on the north. It as a lovely area with many options to eat, it was nice and quiet and we really enjoyed it. To get around Ninh Binh, especially if you are staying bit further from the main attractions (like us), the easiest way is to hire a motorbike or a scooter. It costs approximately 130,000 VND per day.
Getting from Ninh Binh to Hue
From Ninh Binh we took the over-night sleeper train to Hue. The journey lasts 11.5 hours and I wasn’t sure what to expect but it was my favorite mean of transport in SE Asia! The train is called the Laman Express and for myself I can say that the first class was very comfortable. Make sure though that you book the first class! From what I’ve seen in the third and second, I would describe it only as “survivable” but not pleasant at all. Anyway, in the first class we got normal beds, pillows, coffee and tea, beer in the evening and breakfast in the morning. We shared the “room” with one more couple from the Netherlands. The cost wasn’t very cheap, but still better than flying. It cost us 1,861,000 VND for 2 people (approx. 80 USD/73.60 EUR). Make sure you book it in advance!
Station in Ninh Binh is quite busy with backpackers and other travelers waiting for the trains at night. While we were waiting, three boys (ages 10, 8 and 7 years old) came to us with their mum and asked us if we can help them with their English homework and to help them read. I noticed few other groups of children asking for help from international visitors with their English homework. It was the cutest way how to shorten the wait at the station! They were quite small and it was late at night (around 11 pm) but their mum explained to us that they have holiday the next morning and taking them to the station is much cheaper than paying for English lessons. My heart was melting!
Days 8 - 10 - Hue
We got to Hue early in the morning but thanks to the comfortable train we were well rested and ready to explore! Hue is an old imperial capital of Vietnam with rich history, ancient city centre with flowing river, amazing pagodas, old city walls, Royal Tombs and Imperial Citadel. However, to be honest, at this point of our trip we were quite tired of more crumbling temples. We wanted something different.
Hue has one awesome secret – large, colourful cemetery in nearby An Bang village about an hour drive on motorbike from the city. We rented a motorbike from our hostel (for 100,000 VND per day) and even though our host insisted that we cannot find it by ourselves and that we need a guide (which was her cousin and we would have to pay him of course), we declined this offer and decided to try our luck! The hour on a motorbike seemed to last forever, because well motorbikes are not the most comfortable, plus the traffic is really crazy but we made it! It’s actually not so difficult to find because of its size.
An Bang Cemetery
I couldn’t believe my eyes when we came to this strange place. Beside us, there was absolutely no one, no locals nor other travelers. The cemetery is massive, it runs along the beach for 3 km and I have a strong suspicion that it’s actually larger than An Bang town itself.
So how is it possible that an extravagant place like this exists in such a poor country? After the Vietnam’s reunification after the war in 1975, many inhabitants of An Bang emigrated to Europe and America and were sending money back home, which made An Bang one of the most affluent villages in Vietnam. It’s not rare to see big houses with expensive cars in the driveways here. And when every family member had their luxurious villa, but money from abroad kept coming, they started to build these massive colorful tombs, which are few stories high, some of them with toilet, shower or even kitchen inside and most of them are still empty. Really the weirdest place I’ve seen ever in my life!
Nearby Hue you can also find some nice beaches and that’s where we headed the second day. We didn’t see much of the “must-see” places with amazing historical value, but we needed a break. In the evening we strolled around the city and along the riverside promenade full of bars and restaurants. We were drinking cocktails and eating nice meals, and during the day we were exploring the surroundings and chilling pretty much. I wouldn’t have any other way!
Here are some places we stopped by for coffee and drinks, in case you are searching for inspiration:
Where to go for a coffee in Hue
From Hue to Hoi An it is only 4 hours by bus. We booked ours via 12go.asia and at that time it cost us 22 AUD for 2 people. It was proper over-night sleeper bus even though the journey wasn’t very long and it was during the day.
Days 20 - 12 - Hoi An
Hoi An is simply lovely and I don’t know a person who visited and wouldn’t like it. One of the Vietnam’s most atmospheric towns is cut through with canals with colorful boats, and it has been listed as UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1999. The ancient town makes a perfect blend of foreign and local influences. You can see French colonial residences next to the more traditional wooden Vietnamese houses living together in harmony and decorated with countless lanterns. Even though the streets of the old town are small, the city center is quite wide and spacious so it can contain larger amounts of tourists without feeling too crowded.
Besides the Ancient old Town of Hoi An, the most popular places to see are:
What to do in Hoi An
- Japanese Covered Bridge
- Phuc Kien Assembly Hall
- Hoi An Central Market
- Guan Yin Temple
- Tran family home and chapel
- Hoi An Museum of Trade and Ceramics
- My Son Sanctuary - partially destroyed Hindu temples outside of the city. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the entrance fee is 150,000 VND per person. We didn’t manage to visit this place unfortunately.
Cua Dai Beach
Hoi An has also some great beaches easily reachable by bike or motorbike (depending on which part of the city you are staying in). We spent a day on Cua Dai beach closer to the city. The water was clear, sand was soft (and very hot!), coconuts were fresh and palm trees were swaying in the light breeze… It was just a perfect day. To rent a beach bed with an umbrella on Cua Dai, you have to pay 50,000 VND per person (approx. 2.20 USD), which is more than reasonable!
U-Cafe Hoi An
Apart from the historical value, picturesque alleys and beautiful beaches, Hoi An has also its special delicious cuisine so make sure you try some local dishes in one of the many restaurants. I would like to share here U-Café Hoi An, which not only a café with great food, but also a social project that aims to help people locally through employment, training and education about eco-social sustainability. They are connecting people from the community and help where it’s needed the most. It’s a beautiful place and project, so give it a go when in Hoi An. And I also must mention the amazing craftsmanship in Hoi An. You can get custom-made anything from shoes and bags to evening gowns, for regular retail prices. It takes at least 2 days to get it make so unfortunately we didn’t have time to order anything… Hopefully next time!
From Hoi An we took a Grab to Da Nang airport, which took around 30 minutes. From Da Nang we flew directly to Ho Chi Minh City with Jetstar and the flight lasted only 1 hour and a half. I was considering the over-night train again, but it would last over 15 hours and we have our limits.
Days 12 - 14 - Ho Chi Minh City
Our last stop in Vietnam was Ho Chi Minh City, formerly known as Saigon. This city is loud, crazy, bamboozling, full of strange smells, delicious flavors, colonial buildings and people that most probably will try to scam you of some sorts. Anyway, it’s an unmissable place in Vietnam and we quite enjoyed it. Vietnam in 2 weeks
What to do in HCMC
I would recommend spending one day just strolling through the city centre, check out the well-preserved architecture, visit museums, eat all the street food and chill in the parks… From the museums, I would suggest the War Remnants Museum dedicated to the horrors of Vietnamese-American War. The entrance fee is 40,000 VND per person. If you like old colonial buildings, Tan Dinh pink church, Saigon Notre Dame cathedral and Central Post Office are really beautiful examples of the French influences and they are not far from each other so you can walk.
In the evening, hit the famous Bui Vien walking street full of pubs, bars, restaurants and street food stalls. Fancy a scorpion or warm bowl of pho? You can find here both! The walking street starts at 8 pm, during the day it’s open for cars and motorbikes. HCMC is also full of fancy roof top and sky bars with amazing cocktails. Seriously, the best cocktail of my life was Asian Delight from Chill Sky Bar. Be aware though that these places have “western” prices. We got our dinner on the street for 50 cents and then splurged on cocktails for 10 USD each. It’s called balance!
Mekong Delta trip
For the second day in Saigon, check out a trip outside the city. We opted for Delta Mekong tour and to be honest it was extremely disappointing. I wouldn’t go again for sure. Delta Mekong is a vast region with a lot to explore and doing it in one day with a tour was a mistake. We didn’t enjoy it as we were dragged from a place to place with other tour buses. There were so many people everywhere! Plus it started to rain so I don’t have a single photo from the boat cruise on Mekong. The whole day was just bad. I didn’t research properly and this is how it ended… If I can make my choice again, I would opt for the half day tour to the jungle to Cu Chi tunnels to see the actual traps and secret spots where the war took place.
From Ho Chi Minh City we took a bus to Cambodia, which was another mistake. If you have the option, always fly to Cambodia, you will save yourself lots of time, stress and uncomfortable journey. Neither to say, we spent a long time at the customs, and the bus was full of locals, we were the only internationals. Even though the bus was relatively new, I wouldn’t embark on this journey again. Vietnam in 2 weeks
Important Travel Tips for Vietnam
Visa process
Getting tourist visa to Vietnam is easy, however, the process is little bit more complicated than with other Southeast Asian countries. There are few steps to follow:
- You have to fill out an application form online, which is very easy. You need only your date of arrival to the country, which airport you will arrive at and you have to pay service fee, which is 7.50 USD per person.
- Within a week or so (in my case it was only 3 business days), you will get your official Vietnam visa Approval Letter issued by the Vietnam Immigration Department.
- You will have to print it and have it ready together with two passport size photos of yourself (4 x 6 cm) and bring it with you to Vietnam.
- When you arrive at the airport of your destination in Vietnam, you have to show your Approval Letter, together without photos and passport at the Immigration office. After that they will stick the valid tourist visa directly to your passport. You will have to pay additional 27 USD in cash (you can pay in Vietnamese dong). If you don’t have cash on you, there should be ATMs available.
The process for tourist visa application should be the same for most of the countries. We travelled with the EU passport. For more information, you check the official website of Vietnamese embassy.
Currency
Vietnam uses their own currency – Vietnamese Dong (VND), but at some places you will be also able to use USD.
100,000 VND = 4.30 USD/ 3.90 EUR/ 6.30 AUD
In Vietnam it is essential to have cash, as many establishments, including some smaller hotels or hostels don’t have EFTPOS terminals. I would advise you to withdraw money at an ATM or in a bank, rather than exchange in an agency to avoid scams, plus withdrawing money is often more convenient. My MasterCard worked in any ATM just fine and I didn’t have any issues with it. Vietnam in 2 weeks
Best time to visit
Vietnam is a year-round destination and can be enjoyed at any time of the year, however, weather can play a big part if your focus is on trekking and outdoor activities. Because of its long and narrow shape, there are different types of seasons throughout the country. Generally the best time to visit is from December to February, when the temperatures are milder, although if you are planning to do hiking in the north, you can be surprised by cold weather. The monsoon season starts in April and lasts till October, but I visited Vietnam in June and the weather was splendid, sunny and warm. The only time we experienced occasional rains was in Halong Bay, but they never lasted longer than 30 minutes. You can find more information about the seasons in Vietnam here.
Internet and Sim Cards
There are many different tourist sim cards to choose from in Vietnam. We usually get one right at the airport after getting off the plane. Because I was travelling with my husband, we opted for two different telecommunications companies Mobifone and Viettel in case one of them would have weaker reception in certain parts of the country. Luckily we didn’t have to worry, because the signal was good anywhere we went.
Electric sockets
Vietnam uses plug types A (two flat vertical pins), C (a.k.a. the ‘Europlug’) and E (two round pins). The standard voltage is 220V. If you own a universal adapter, you should be fine to use it for all your electric appliances.
Getting around
Vietnam is well connected by air, rail or bus, so if you plan to travel the whole length of the country, you have many different options which will suit your travel style and budget. You may be surprised that there are more than 20 airports in Vietnam with many low cost domestic airlines such as VietJetAir, Vietnam Airlines or Jetstar to take you around. Flying is a great idea especially if you are travelling on tight schedule.
If flying is not your cup of tea, for long distances I would recommend sleeper trains and buses. Sleeper train from Ninh Binh to Hue was my favorite mean of transport during our trip around South East Asia, but you have to make sure to book the first class ticket in advance to get a comfy bed, clean sheets, pillow and breakfast. Overnight buses are also quite comfortable as the seats are made for sleeping rather than sitting. To book your long distance transport I found this website the most user friendly and it’ll show you different price options and comparisons as well as reviews from other travelers.
To get around a city I found Grab the most reliable and convenient mean of transport. If there was no Grab driver available anywhere near me, I went to a taxi driver and haggled the price to the one that the Grab app showed me for my route. For day trips outside the town you can rent a motorbike – the prices for one day usually start at about 100,000 VND.
Safety and common scams
Vietnam is overall safe country, but one has to be always aware of its surroundings. Petty crimes and scams targeting tourists are happening on daily basis anywhere in the world. It happened to me in Ho Chi Minh that a man put a piece of tape on my shoes and then asked for money because “he fixed it for me”. In this type of situations you have to be firm but polite and refuse to give them anything. They will not harm you. If you are interested in the most common travel scams that can happen to you in Vietnam and how to avoid them, I found this article very useful.
I think two weeks in Vietnam may seem as a long time for someone, but trust me, it’s a big country with a lot to offer and I could spend there even two months! Despite our rough start, overall I really loved it and would like to be back some day! Vietnam in 2 weeks
Have you been to Vietnam? How long did you stay and what were the places you visited? Let me know if comment below!
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